Tuesday, 16 December 2008

Top 10 Pembrokeshire Pubs


1. Tafarn Sinc (The Zinc Tavern) - Rosebush

A pub like no other. Eccentric, individual and a genuine slice of Pembrokeshire history, Tafarn Sinc is set in the old slate mining village of Rosebush, in the shadow of the Preseli Mountains’ tallest peak, Foel Cwmcerwyn. There has been a pub or hotel here since the 1870s when Rosebush was a thriving mining community connected to the rest of Pembrokeshire by the Clynderwen to Maenclochog railway line. There were even scenic gardens to tempt tourists up into the mountains. By the 1960s, however, the mines were closed and the village was in decline. When I first stumbled in here 35 years ago everyone knew this place as the Preseli Hotel. Back then it was like walking into someone's living room. You entered via swing doors straight out of a John Wayne movie and had to tell the landlady exactly who you were and were you were from before she’d agree to serve you homebrew from a jug. Once you were in you were in, however. It wasn’t unheard of for locals to roll out of there at dawn. As its name suggests Tafarin Sinc is made of zinc. By the late 1980s it was rusting to death. To no one’s surprise it was closed in 1992, ready to be condemned. But, thanks to landlord Brian Llewelyn, Tafarn Sinc as it’s now known, has risen like a phoenix from the flames. It’s still a mixture of the quirky and the quaint, but as evidence of how far it’s come since the old days it is now doing posh food. You’d have been chucked out for asking for a pork scratching in the 70s. Unmissable.

Tafarn Sinc website


2. The Sloop - Porthgain
James Nesbitt of Cold Feet and the annoying Yellow Pages advert fame, is among the many fans of the north Pembrokeshire coast’s best-loved pub. He spent a week in Porthgain once and found it very hard to leave his favourite spot next to the Sloop‘s hearth, which is understandable given that there's usually a sing-song on the go around the open fire. The pub has been expanded considerably in recent years and can now cope with the huge influxes of walkers, families and foodies who head for Porthgain during the holidays. The food is excellent as is the service and general welcome. To walk off your lunch climb the steps up past the old harbour and walk along the cliffs to the old industrial buildings that sit on the cliff tops. Then head back to The Sloop for a couple more. Don't forget to phone for a taxi from St David’s.

The Sloop website

3. The Swan/The Castle - Little Haven

Location is everything and, for the sheer quality of its setting, The Swan in Little Haven has absolutely everything. Perched on the southern side of the village's picturesque cove, The Swan overlooks one of the loveliest places in Pembrokeshire. It's the perfect place to sit, sipping a beer as you watch the world go by.The only thing that lets The Swan down is its lack of a seating area at the front. You have to lean on the wall, which I rather enjoy doing.
But if you really need to sit down, it's worth mentioning Little Haven's other - also excellent - seafront pub The Castle. But for charm and quaintness, The Swan (below) wins by a neck.


4. Boncath Inn - Boncath
Thirty or so years ago, The Boncath Inn, on the Cardigan road, north of Crymych, was a real, spit-and-sawdust watering hole, popular with local farmers. It always had atmosphere, but needed dragging into the 20th century! What a difference a few decades make. Now The Boncath Inn is an award-winning family pub. It oozes friendliness and has a cosy charm that has won it a horde of admirers, including CAMRA - the Campaign for Real Ale - which has recognised it as Pembrokeshire's best pub on a couple of occasions.

Boncath Inn website

5. Royal George - Upper Solva
Another pub with a fabulous vista, The Royal George is in Upper Solva. Its back garden overlooks the coast and is one of the most relaxing places I know to sit and watch the sun go down. There is decent food and a great range of ales, as well. It's also spacious enough for the whole family. Plenty of car parking space too, which isn't something you can always say about pubs on the St David's peninsula.


6. Ship Aground, Dinas Cross

7. Three Mariners - Tenby

8. Ship Inn - Trefin

9. Cresselly Arms - Cresswell Quay

10. Kirkland Arms - Narberth

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