The Pembrokeshire landscape is peppered with castles. The county's skyline is alive with turrets and towers, ramparts and fortifications. There are, apparently, 51 sites that have, at one time or another, been the location of castles of some kind, a lasting testimony to the county's strategic importance during more turbulent times. Everyone has their favourite. Here's our list of our top 10:
1. Cilgerran Castle
Perched overlooking a gorge on the Teifi river, Cilgerran castle is Pembrokeshire's hidden gem. The view is quite spectacular, northwards towards Cardigan. Even JMW Turner was beguiled by the place, immortalising it in this famous and evocative landscape.2. Manorbier CastleLocation, location, location. This magnificent looking castle is, without doubt, the best located fortification in the county, on the edge of the small village south of Pembroke and overlooking a lovely sandy beach.
3. Pembroke Castle
The grandest of the county's castles, this mighty monument dates back to 1093 and was the birthplace of Henry VII. Dominating the town in which it stands, the imposing castle is largely intact and it is all too easy to imagine yourself as a Norman sentry staring into the woods across the river watching for invading Frenchmen. In keeping with its status as the most Royal of Pembrokeshire's castles, Pembroke has the most extensive programme of events of al, with everything from expert guided tours to jousting tournaments.
4. Carew Castle
5. Llawhaden Castle
6. Roch Castle
7. Picton Castle
8. Narberth Castle
9. Tenby Castle
10. Haverfordwest Castle
1. Tafarn Sinc (The Zinc Tavern) - Rosebush
A pub like no other. Eccentric, individual and a genuine slice of Pembrokeshire history, Tafarn Sinc is set in the old slate mining village of Rosebush, in the shadow of the Preseli Mountains’ tallest peak, Foel Cwmcerwyn. There has been a pub or hotel here since the 1870s when Rosebush was a thriving mining community connected to the rest of Pembrokeshire by the Clynderwen to Maenclochog railway line. There were even scenic gardens to tempt tourists up into the mountains. By the 1960s, however, the mines were closed and the village was in decline. When I first stumbled in here 35 years ago everyone knew this place as the Preseli Hotel. Back then it was like walking into someone's living room. You entered via swing doors straight out of a John Wayne movie and had to tell the landlady exactly who you were and were you were from before she’d agree to serve you homebrew from a jug. Once you were in you were in, however. It wasn’t unheard of for locals to roll out of there at dawn. As its name suggests Tafarin Sinc is made of zinc. By the late 1980s it was rusting to death. To no one’s surprise it was closed in 1992, ready to be condemned. But, thanks to landlord Brian Llewelyn, Tafarn Sinc as it’s now known, has risen like a phoenix from the flames. It’s still a mixture of the quirky and the quaint, but as evidence of how far it’s come since the old days it is now doing posh food. You’d have been chucked out for asking for a pork scratching in the 70s. Unmissable.
Tafarn Sinc website
2. The Sloop - Porthgain
James Nesbitt of Cold Feet and the annoying Yellow Pages advert fame, is among the many fans of the north Pembrokeshire coast’s best-loved pub. He spent a week in Porthgain once and found it very hard to leave his favourite spot next to the Sloop‘s hearth, which is understandable given that there's usually a sing-song on the go around the open fire. The pub has been expanded considerably in recent years and can now cope with the huge influxes of walkers, families and foodies who head for Porthgain during the holidays. The food is excellent as is the service and general welcome. To walk off your lunch climb the steps up past the old harbour and walk along the cliffs to the old industrial buildings that sit on the cliff tops. Then head back to The Sloop for a couple more. Don't forget to phone for a taxi from St David’s.
The Sloop website
3. The Swan/The Castle - Little Haven
Location is everything and, for the sheer quality of its setting, The Swan in Little Haven has absolutely everything. Perched on the southern side of the village's picturesque cove, The Swan overlooks one of the loveliest places in Pembrokeshire. It's the perfect place to sit, sipping a beer as you watch the world go by.The only thing that lets The Swan down is its lack of a seating area at the front. You have to lean on the wall, which I rather enjoy doing.
But if you really need to sit down, it's worth mentioning Little Haven's other - also excellent - seafront pub The Castle. But for charm and quaintness, The Swan (below) wins by a neck.
4. Boncath Inn - Boncath
Thirty or so years ago, The Boncath Inn, on the Cardigan road, north of Crymych, was a real, spit-and-sawdust watering hole, popular with local farmers. It always had atmosphere, but needed dragging into the 20th century! What a difference a few decades make. Now The Boncath Inn is an award-winning family pub. It oozes friendliness and has a cosy charm that has won it a horde of admirers, including CAMRA - the Campaign for Real Ale - which has recognised it as Pembrokeshire's best pub on a couple of occasions.
Boncath Inn website
5. Royal George - Upper Solva
Another pub with a fabulous vista, The Royal George is in Upper Solva. Its back garden overlooks the coast and is one of the most relaxing places I know to sit and watch the sun go down. There is decent food and a great range of ales, as well. It's also spacious enough for the whole family. Plenty of car parking space too, which isn't something you can always say about pubs on the St David's peninsula.
6. Ship Aground, Dinas Cross
7. Three Mariners - Tenby
8. Ship Inn - Trefin
9. Cresselly Arms - Cresswell Quay
10. Kirkland Arms - Narberth
From the bucket-and-spade sands of Saundersfoot and Tenby in the south, to the ancient, rugged beauty of Abermawr and Abereiddy in the north, from the picture postcard beauty of Barafundle Bay (pictured here) to the windswept open spaces of Newgale, Pembrokeshire has a beach to suit every taste. You can vote on your favourite in our new poll. In the meantime, here's our Top 10.
1. Newgale:
Wild, windswept, magnificent. Pembrokeshire's wilderness beach is a place to stir the soul and escape the world's troubles. There is a warm and welcoming cafe and a pub at the northern end and a small caravan site and (seasonal) shop halfway along the coastal road. But otherwise Newgale is the antithesis of the southern seaside towns of Tenby and Saundersfoot.
T10P Score: 10/10
2. Broad Haven South
Picture postcard pretty, Broad Haven South (not to be confused with Broad Haven West) has it all - a beautiful enclosed, sandy beach, great surf, stunning cliffs to the east and the imposing Star Rock waiting to entertain beachcombers and crab hunters all day long. All in all it is a little oasis on the otherwise busy Pembroke coast. If you ever tire of the beach there are fabulous walks, in particular towards Stackpole and Barafundle along the coastal path. The real treat is tucked away in the northeastern corner where, when the tides are out, you can walk around to the beautiful Bosherston lily ponds. Facilities are limited. There are toilets and (seasonal) food and drink in the car park above the beach. But nearby Bosherston has a lovely tea room and a well-stocked shop. T10P Score: 9.5/10
3. Whitesands Bay
Whitesands is St David's 'city' beach. A short drive from the dreaming spires, its horseshoe beach lives up to its name with gleaming white sand and stunning views of Ramsey Island across the water. Whitesands is Pembrokeshire's number one surfing beach but that doesn't detract from its pleasures for non water-sporters. There are spectacular walks along the coastal path to the north. The beach is well served with a decent shop and cafe, although queues at peak times can be horrendous.
T10P Score: 9/104. Barafundle.
5. Marloes
6. Tenby South Beach
7. Manorbier
8. Abermawr
9. Saundersfoot
10. Broad Haven West
The grandest of the county's castles, this mighty monument dates back to 1093 and was the birthplace of Henry VII. Dominating the town in which it stands, the imposing castle is largely intact and it is all too easy to imagine yourself as a Norman sentry staring into the woods across the river watching for invading Frenchmen. In keeping with its status as the most Royal of Pembrokeshire's castles, Pembroke has the most extensive programme of events of al, with everything from expert guided tours to jousting tournaments.
